🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.